Cartier Must II - ref. 1810 - c. 1990 (box)

Must II: an unjustly overlooked model

Description

The Cartier Must II, sometimes referred to as the Must Ronde, is a relatively uncommon model within the Cartier vintage repertoire.

Yet it is well worth a closer look. The Must II embraces the classic codes so dear to Cartier: a white central dial, Roman numerals, a railway minute track and blued steel hands. However, it belongs to the Must line, renowned for its originality. Set within a generous round vermeil case (gold-plated silver), the dial reveals a subtle two-tone design: a white centre encircled by a beige ring bearing the hour markers. Above 6 o’clock sits a small seconds display, an especially charming detail that brings life and movement to the dial.

With a 33 mm diameter, this watch sits comfortably on both a feminine and a masculine wrist.

Finally, the camel-coloured Cartier strap is fitted with a gold-plated Cartier folding clasp, enhancing the overall comfort of the piece.

The watch is accompanied by its original Cartier presentation box.

Why did Françoise choose it?

Whether monochrome or adorned with geometric motifs, with or without hour markers, petite or bold, there is always a Must watch to match one’s personality. For this reason, we curate models with a variety of designs, some more understated, others subtly sportier.

The Must II is not particularly common. And yet, it is a distinctive model that Françoise wished to highlight for those who appreciate a watch with real presence on the wrist. Less widely seen, it offers a refreshing alternative to traditional gold models, as its case is not crafted from solid precious metal. Bold yet elegant, two qualities united in a single design.

History

The Cartier Must II remains relatively little known. Introduced in the early 1990s, its commercialisation is closely linked to the Must de Cartier line.

The "Must de Cartier" collection was launched in 1973 by Robert Hocq and Alain-Dominique Perrin, who was appointed Chief Executive Officer of this new division of the Maison. This creative line enabled Cartier not only to expand its offering, but also to introduce a more accessible and unconventional range, democratising the world of luxury while preserving its distinctive codes.

Following lighters, pens and leather goods, the Must watch made its appearance in 1976-77. The vermeil Tank was the first to be introduced bearing the inscription "Must de Cartier" alongside the double "C" signature on the dial. Although the earliest models were fitted with manual movements, quartz quickly established itself as the preferred choice for these practical, everyday watches.

The Must II may be seen as part of a renewal within the Must line: a more assertive case design, a watch that fully embraces its presence and wears it with confidence.