Cartier Panthère Gold & Steel - Small Model - c. 1990

The missing link between Madonna, Margaret Thatcher and Keith Richards

Description

Is there still any need to introduce the iconic Cartier Panthère? Cartier has always been a master of form and design. The bold (even daring) idea of combining a very square case with rounded edges and slender, elongated links could only have come from the Maison. The result is a resounding success, subsequently produced in solid gold, gold and steel, steel, pavé versions, as well as in large and small sizes.

This may well be the most classic version: the small model in yellow gold and steel, fitted with its bracelet featuring two rows of gold.

The dial is also among the purest, like the earliest Panthère models, without a date window. This smaller version is decidedly feminine (compared to the standard size, seen on both women’s and men’s wrists), yet even more comfortable to wear than its larger counterpart, if that is even possible.

How to wear it?

Watches with metal bracelets have always had a sporty appearance. The strength of the Panthère lies in its clean yet rounded lines, which soften that purely sporty impression. Its finely linked, articulated bracelet ultimately gives it an elegant character. The "jewellery" aspect, meanwhile, comes from the presence of gold on both the bezel and the two-row bracelet.

Françoise wears it very casually, as an everyday watch, and might favour more formal leather-strap pieces for the evening. Then again… this is a watch that feels at home anywhere.

Why did Françoise choose it?

If Françoise chose it, she is far from alone. It has been seen, and continues to be seen, on the wrists of numerous actresses, musicians and political figures. If one were to choose a single Cartier for life, it might well be a Panthère. A metal bracelet, of any kind, offers unmatched durability and comfort. This smaller version remains more discreet than its counterparts, while the two-tone gold-and-steel version with two rows perfectly reflects the Panthère’s origins, released at a time when gold and steel were frequently combined in watchmaking. This trend has made a strong comeback in recent years, the perfect opportunity to be in fashion in 2026 with a watch from the 1980s.

History

The Panthère watch was launched in the celebratory spirit of the 1980s, when Michèle Kaouni was Director of Creation at Cartier. It takes its name from its bracelet: supple and refined, it evokes the movement of the feline, fluid, elegant and sensual. At Cartier, the panther, with its distinctive coat, is a core part of the brand’s identity. The spotted motif first appeared on another ladies’ wristwatch in 1914, crafted in onyx and diamonds.

From its very launch, it was embraced by a wide and eclectic audience: Madonna, Keith Richards, Margaret Thatcher. Why not you?