Cartier Tank Must "Trinity" Medium - c. 1990 - ref. 366001

Two great classics in one.

Description

Taking up the stylistic characteristics of its solid gold predecessor, this Tank Must departs from it in two decisive ways. First, it distinguishes itself through the use of vermeil (gold-plated silver) rather than solid gold. The Tank Must is also recognisable thanks to the originality of its dial. Moving away from the traditional combination of Roman numerals on a white dial, the Tank Must continues to offer remarkable dials, some lacquered with Arabic numerals, and others, like this one, featuring the use of the three golds.

It thus reflects the codes of the Trinity collection, combining three golds to represent three cardinal values: rose gold for love, yellow gold for fidelity, and white gold for friendship.

What made the Tank such a success remains unchanged, particularly its proportions. The medium size is ideal for a feminine wrist: it sits perfectly on the wrist, discreet and effortlessly worn.

This Tank Must ref. 360001 is fitted with a burgundy Cartier alligator leather strap, paired with a Cartier gold-plated pin buckle.

Why did Françoise choose it?

Large, medium, small, solid gold, gold-plated, classic dial, coloured lacquer dial, plain leather or vibrant straps, Françoise loves the Tank in all its forms. If she is particularly fond of colourful lacquer dials, she was immediately drawn to this one, which brings together the best of two worlds: the iconic Tank Must design and the originality of a dial inspired by the Trinity collection. With this Must, one gains access to two Cartier classics at a more accessible price point than solid gold versions (which, moreover, would never feature such a distinctive dial).

With its quartz movement, it offers the practicality of a daily timepiece that can be worn anywhere.

History

The first Tank, known as the Tank Normale, was created in 1917 and later gave way, in 1922, to the Tank Louis Cartier, whose design remains largely unchanged. Through the Must line, Cartier sought to reinterpret the codes of luxury by offering more accessible pieces, alongside maisons such as Van Cleef & Arpels and its Boutique line. It was not until 1976 that the Tank Must was introduced, the first vermeil watch from the Maison, later declined in a wide variety of dials. Its redesigned silhouette recalls the Tank Louis Cartier with a twist.

The "Must de Cartier" collection was launched in 1973 by Robert Hocq and Alain-Dominique Perrin, appointed Managing Director of the new division.

This creative line not only allowed Cartier to expand its offering but also to present a more accessible and contemporary range, democratising luxury while preserving its codes.

After lighters, pens, and leather goods, it was the turn of watches to join the Must line in 1976/77. The vermeil Tank was the first to appear bearing the "Must de Cartier" signature and the two "C"s on the dial. Although early models were fitted with manual movements, quartz quickly became the standard for these everyday, easy-to-wear timepieces.

Unlike Cartier watches in yellow gold, Must line pieces in silver, vermeil, or steel offered a wide variety of cases and dials, sometimes colourful, sometimes decorated with geometric motifs, bringing a fresh spirit to classic designs.