Cartier Panthère Gold & Steel - Small Model - c. 1980

The missing link between Madonna, Margaret Thatcher, and Keith Richards

Description

Do we still need to introduce the iconic Cartier Panthère? Cartier has always been a master of form and design. The bold (daring?) challenge of pairing a very square case with softly rounded edges and slender, elongated links could only have been taken on by the Maison itself. The result was a resounding success, later interpreted in solid gold, gold and steel, steel, pavé, large sizes and small sizes…

This may well be the most classic version: the small model in yellow gold and steel on its two-tone bracelet. With a single row of gold links, this Panthère is the most discreet of them all.

The dial is also at its purest, just like the very first Panthère models, without a date window. This smaller size is decidedly feminine (compared to the classic size, seen equally on women’s and men’s wrists), and even more comfortable to wear than its larger sister, if that’s possible.

How to wear it?

Metal-bracelet watches are, and always will be, sporty to the eye. The strength of the Panthère lies in its lines, both clean and rounded, which soften this purely sporty impression. Its fine, articulated links ultimately give the Panthère an elegant feel. The jewel-like dimension comes from the presence of gold on the bezel and on the bracelet, which features a single, and rarer, row of gold.

Françoise wears it very casually, as an everyday watch, and may prefer more formal leather-strap watches for the evening. Although… this is a watch that feels perfectly at home anywhere.

Why did Françoise choose it?

If Françoise chose it, she’s far from alone. It has been, and continues to be, spotted on the wrists of countless actresses, musicians and political figures. If Françoise had to choose one Cartier for life, she might well turn to a Panthère. A metal bracelet, whatever its configuration, offers unmatched durability and comfort. This smaller version remains more discreet than its counterparts. And the gold-and-steel combination is a perfect reminder of the Panthère’s origins, released at a time when mixing gold and steel was very much in vogue. That trend has made a strong comeback in recent years: the perfect opportunity to be on trend in 2026 with a watch from 1980!

History

The Panthère watch was launched in the festive spirit of the 1980s, when Michèle Kaouni was Director of Creation at Cartier. Its name comes from its bracelet: supple and refined, it evokes the way a feline moves, all fluidity, elegance and sensuality. At Cartier, the panther and its spotted coat are central to the Maison’s identity. The motif first appeared in 1914 on another ladies’ wristwatch, crafted in onyx and diamonds.

From the moment it was introduced, it was embraced by a broad and eclectic audience: Madonna, Keith Richards, Margaret Thatcher… Why not you?