Cartier Tank Must "Trinity" - ref. 590005 - c. 1990

Description

Drawing on the stylistic features of its solid gold predecessor, this Tank Must departs from it in two radical ways. Firstly, it distinguishes itself through the use of vermeil (gold-plated silver) rather than solid gold. It is also recognisable by the originality of its dial. Moving away from the traditional combination of Roman numerals on a white dial, the Tank Must consistently offers remarkable dials, some lacquered, others featuring Arabic numerals, or, as in this case, incorporating the use of three golds.

Here, we find the codes of the Trinity range, with the combination of three golds representing three cardinal values: rose gold for love, yellow gold for fidelity, and white gold symbolising friendship. This subtle nod to the three golds remains discreet, positioned on either side of a white dial.

This classically sized Tank Must is ideal for both a woman’s and a man’s wrist, thanks to its refined lines which never feel imposing.

Why did Françoise choose it?

Large, medium, small, solid gold, gold-plated, classic dial, coloured lacquered dial, on understated or vibrant leather, whatever the variation, Françoise loves the Tank, all Tanks! While she has a particular fondness for coloured lacquered dials, she immediately fell under the spell of this one, which brings together the best of two worlds: the iconic Tank shape in its Must version, and the originality of a dial inspired by the Trinity collection. With this Must, one gains access to two Cartier classics at a more accessible price than solid gold versions (which, moreover, never feature such an original dial).

With its quartz movement, it offers the practicality of an everyday watch that will accompany you everywhere.

History

The first Tank, known as the Normale and designed in 1917, gave way in 1922 to the Tank Louis Cartier, whose design remains unchanged to this day. Through its Must line, Cartier sought to reinterpret the codes of luxury by offering more accessible pieces, much like Van Cleef & Arpels did with its Boutique concept. It was not until 1976 that the Tank Must was introduced, the Maison’s first vermeil watch, later produced in a wide variety of dial designs. Its revised aesthetic echoes the Tank Louis Cartier, with a twist.

The "Must de Cartier" collection was launched in 1973 by Robert Hocq and Alain-Dominique Perrin, appointed Chief Executive of this new entity.

This creative line allowed the Maison Cartier not only to expand its offering but also to introduce a more accessible and unconventional range, helping to democratise the luxury sector while preserving its distinctive codes.

Following lighters, pens and leather goods, the Must watch made its appearance in 1976-77. The vermeil Tank was the first to be introduced, bearing the inscription "Must de Cartier" along with the double "C" on the dial. While early models were equipped with manual movements, quartz quickly became the standard for these practical, easy-to-wear everyday watches.

Unlike Cartier watches in yellow gold, those in the Must line, crafted in silver, vermeil or steel, offer a wide variety of cases and dials. Sometimes colourful, sometimes adorned with geometric patterns, these designs breathe new life into classic models.